Food is a love language in this newly-opened Dublin restaurant, Sunday Times

After tapas, Anna Cabrera and Vanessa Murphy introduce us to the sophisticated side of Spain, say Russell Alford and Patrick Hanlon

Bogavante de Formentera

We need to invest in a burner phone. Dialling up to chance a table in an hour at a newly opened restaurant in Dublin, it’s not our names (or aliases) that give us away, but our phone number. After a few seconds of phone silence comes, “Oh . . . Hello, Russell!”, followed by an excitable change in tone, “I thought I recognised your voice . . .” We’d been foiled.